There are recipes you learn from cookbooks, and then there are recipes that live in your bones. Tzatziki is one of those for me. I grew up watching my grandmother make it in her tiny Marrickville kitchen, and she never once measured a thing. A handful of this, a squeeze of that. The result was always the same: cool, garlicky, and completely addictive.

Over the years I have tried to pin down what makes a truly great tzatziki versus a merely acceptable one. It comes down to three things: the yoghurt, the cucumber prep, and restraint with the garlic.

Start With the Right Yoghurt

In Greece, the yoghurt used for tzatziki is thick, strained, and full-fat. Here in Australia, your best bet is a quality Greek-style yoghurt. I reach for Jalna or Farmers Union Greek Style. Avoid anything labelled “light” or “diet” because you will end up with a watery dip that tastes of nothing.

If your yoghurt seems a bit loose, strain it through a cheesecloth or fine sieve for an hour. You want it thick enough that a spoon stands up in it.

The Cucumber Question

This is where most people go wrong. You must remove the water from the cucumber, or your tzatziki will be swimming in liquid by the time you serve it.

Here is my method:

1. Take one telegraph cucumber and grate it on the coarse side of a box grater.
2. Place the grated cucumber in a clean tea towel.
3. Squeeze the towel over the sink, wringing out as much liquid as possible.
4. You should end up with about half the volume you started with.

Do not skip this step. I cannot stress this enough. Watery tzatziki is a crime against meze.

Garlic: Less Than You Think

Raw garlic in tzatziki is potent. My grandmother used two small cloves for a large bowl. I have seen recipes calling for four or five cloves and I have to wonder if those authors actually tasted their dip. Two cloves, finely grated on a microplane, is plenty. The garlic flavour will develop and intensify as the tzatziki sits in the fridge, so err on the side of caution.

Bringing It Together

Combine in a bowl:

• 500g thick Greek yoghurt
• 1 telegraph cucumber, grated and squeezed dry
• 2 small cloves garlic, finely grated
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (use a good Greek or Australian one)
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon dried mint (or 2 tablespoons fresh, finely chopped)
• Salt to taste

Stir everything together, cover, and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. This resting time lets the flavours meld and the garlic settles into the yoghurt rather than punching you in the face.

Serving Suggestions

Tzatziki is the workhorse of any meze spread. It goes with everything: warm pita bread, grilled lamb, fried zucchini chips, roasted beetroot, or simply alongside a plate of sliced tomatoes and cucumbers.

I always make a double batch when I am hosting because it disappears faster than anything else on the table. People who claim they do not like garlic will eat half the bowl and then ask for the recipe.

A Note on Dill vs Mint

You will see recipes that use dill instead of mint. Both are traditional, depending on which part of Greece the recipe comes from. In my family, it was always dried mint. On the island of Skyros, where my father’s family originates, dried mint is the standard. But if you prefer dill, go for it. Use about two tablespoons of fresh dill, finely chopped.

The key with any herb in tzatziki is that it should complement, not dominate. The star of the show is the cool, tangy yoghurt against the sharp bite of garlic.

Storage

Tzatziki keeps well in the fridge for three to four days. It may release a little liquid as it sits, which you can simply stir back in or drain off. The garlic will continue to develop, so if you are making it well in advance, you might want to start with just one clove.

There is no substitute for making this from scratch. The pre-made versions in supermarket deli sections bear no resemblance to the real thing. Once you make it yourself, you will never go back to the plastic tubs.

Kali orexi.