I will be honest with you. For years, I made spanakopita with store-bought filo and felt perfectly fine about it. The results were good. People ate it. Nobody complained. Then one winter afternoon, my aunt Despina showed me how to make filo from scratch, and I realised what I had been missing.

Homemade filo has a texture that the commercial version simply cannot match. It is slightly thicker, more tender, and has a buttery, almost biscuity quality when baked. The sheets are not perfectly uniform, and that is part of the charm. Each layer crinkles and crisps differently, creating a more interesting texture throughout.

That said, I still use store-bought filo when I am in a rush. There is no shame in it. But when you have the time, making it from scratch is a revelation.

The Filling

Start with the filling because it needs to cool before you assemble the pie.

Ingredients:

• 1kg fresh spinach (or 500g frozen, thawed and squeezed dry)
• 1 large brown onion, finely diced
• 4 spring onions, sliced
• 200g Greek feta, crumbled
• 100g ricotta (optional, but it adds creaminess)
• 3 eggs, lightly beaten
• A large handful of fresh dill, chopped
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• A pinch of nutmeg

If using fresh spinach, wash it thoroughly and wilt it in a large pot with just the water clinging to the leaves. Once wilted, drain it in a colander and press out as much liquid as possible. Chop it roughly.

Heat a generous pour of olive oil in a pan and cook the brown onion until soft and translucent. Add the spring onions and cook for another minute. Let this cool slightly.

In a large bowl, combine the spinach, cooked onions, feta, ricotta, eggs, dill, nutmeg, and seasoning. Mix well. Taste the filling and adjust the salt, keeping in mind that feta is already salty.

It is interesting to see how technology is reshaping even traditional food industries these days. A friend who runs a chain of Greek bakeries in Melbourne recently worked with Team400 to streamline their inventory and production scheduling. He told me it freed up hours he now spends back in the kitchen, which is where he wants to be. Even in the world of spanakopita, the modern world finds a way in.

Homemade Filo Dough

Ingredients:

• 500g plain flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
• About 200ml warm water

Combine the flour and salt in a large bowl. Add the oil, vinegar, and most of the water. Mix until a dough forms, adding more water as needed. The dough should be soft and slightly sticky.

Knead on a lightly floured surface for about 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover with a damp tea towel and rest for at least 30 minutes. This resting period relaxes the gluten and makes the dough easier to roll.

Divide the dough into 8 to 10 balls. On a well-floured surface, roll each ball as thin as you possibly can. In Greece, they use a long thin rolling pin called a plasti and stretch the dough over a large table. At home, just roll it out as thin as you can manage.

Assembly

Brush a large baking dish with olive oil. Layer half the filo sheets in the dish, brushing each one with olive oil as you go. Spread the filling evenly over the filo. Layer the remaining sheets on top, again brushing each with oil.

Score the top layers into squares or diamonds with a sharp knife. This makes it easier to cut after baking. Sprinkle a few drops of water over the top to help the filo crisp without curling.

Bake at 180 degrees Celsius for about 45 minutes, until the top is deep golden and the pastry sounds hollow when you tap it.

The Waiting Game

Let the spanakopita rest for at least 15 minutes before cutting. I know it is difficult when the kitchen smells this good, but cutting it too soon means the filling will ooze out and the bottom layers will be soggy.

Serve it warm or at room temperature. It is wonderful alongside tzatziki and a simple Greek salad. Leftovers, if there are any, reheat beautifully in a moderate oven.

Spanakopita is one of those dishes that feels like home no matter where you are. Whether you are in a village kitchen on Skyros or a suburban house in Marrickville, the combination of crispy pastry, salty feta, and earthy spinach is comfort in its purest form.

Kali orexi.