On the Greek islands, you see octopus hanging on lines to dry in the sun outside tavernas. They drape over wooden racks like strange purple laundry, drying slowly in the salt air before being charred over coals and served with a splash of vinegar and olive oil. It is one of the most iconic images of Greek cooking.

Here in Sydney, we do not have the luxury of drying our octopus in the Aegean breeze, but we can still produce octopus at home that rivals what you find in the Greek islands. The process is not difficult, but it requires patience and a few key techniques.

Sourcing

Most fishmongers in Sydney sell whole octopus, either fresh or frozen. Frozen is perfectly fine and is actually preferable for tenderising, as the freezing process breaks down the muscle fibres. If you are buying fresh, you will need to freeze it yourself for at least 24 hours before cooking.

Look for octopus from Australian or Spanish waters. The baby octopus you see in many Asian grocers works for different preparations but is not what you want for a Greek-style grilled dish. You want a whole octopus weighing about 1 to 1.5 kilograms.

Cleaning

If the fishmonger has not already cleaned it, you will need to remove the beak (the hard bit in the centre where the tentacles meet) and the ink sac and innards from the head. Turn the head inside out like a sock, remove everything, and rinse well. Most fishmongers will do this for you if you ask.

The Tenderising Problem

Octopus is a muscle, and like any muscle, it can be tough if not treated correctly. The Greeks have several traditional methods for tenderising:

Beating it against rocks. This is the classic island method. Fishermen literally bash the octopus against harbour rocks repeatedly. You can replicate this at home by slapping it against your kitchen counter a few times. Your neighbours may wonder what is happening.

Freezing. As mentioned, this breaks down the fibres effectively. A minimum of 24 hours in the freezer.

Long, slow cooking. This is the most reliable method and the one I recommend. You do not need to do any of the theatrical bashing if you simply cook the octopus gently before grilling.

My Method: Braise Then Grill

This two-stage method produces octopus that is tender inside with a charred, slightly crispy exterior.

Stage 1: Braising

Place the whole cleaned octopus in a heavy pot with a lid. Do not add any water or liquid. Add:

• 2 bay leaves
• A splash of red wine vinegar
• 5 whole black peppercorns

That is it. Put the lid on and cook over very low heat for about 45 minutes to an hour. The octopus will release its own liquid and effectively poach in it. You will know it is done when a knife slides easily into the thickest part of the tentacle.

Remove the octopus and let it cool. At this point, you can refrigerate it for up to two days before grilling, which makes this an excellent prepare-ahead dish.

Stage 2: Grilling

Cut the octopus into individual tentacles and the head into manageable pieces. Toss them in a bowl with olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, and a pinch of dried oregano.

Get your grill or barbecue very hot. You want high, direct heat. Grill the octopus pieces for 2 to 3 minutes per side, just enough to get char marks and crispy edges. Do not overcook it at this stage. You are adding flavour and texture, not cooking it through.

Serving

Transfer the grilled octopus to a plate and dress it immediately with:

• Extra virgin olive oil
• Red wine vinegar
• Dried oregano
• A squeeze of lemon

Some people add capers or finely diced red onion, which I approve of. Serve it with crusty bread to soak up the dressing.

Grilled octopus is one of the great meze dishes. It pairs beautifully with ouzo or a crisp white wine like Assyrtiko from Santorini. On a warm Sydney evening, a plate of charred octopus, a glass of cold wine, and good company is hard to beat.

One More Tip

Save the braising liquid from stage one. It is intensely flavoured octopus stock and makes an incredible base for a seafood risotto or pasta sauce. Strain it, freeze it in portions, and thank me later.

Kali orexi.