I am going to wade into controversial territory here. Is hummus Greek? The short answer is: it depends on who you ask, and be prepared for a spirited argument regardless.

The longer answer involves thousands of years of culinary history across the eastern Mediterranean, and the reality is that hummus, in various forms, has been eaten across this entire region for centuries. Claiming it belongs to any single country is a bit like claiming the sea belongs to one shore.

The Historical Picture

The word “hummus” comes from Arabic, meaning chickpeas. The earliest known recipes for mashed chickpea dishes appear in medieval Arabic cookbooks. By strict historical evidence, hummus as we know it today, chickpeas blended with tahini, lemon, and garlic, is most convincingly traced to the Levant.

However, chickpeas have been cultivated and eaten in Greece for thousands of years. The ancient Greeks ate a dish called erebinthos, which was essentially a chickpea puree. Whether it had tahini in it is debatable, but the concept of mashing chickpeas into a dip or spread is certainly part of the Greek culinary tradition.

In modern Greece, hummus is widely served in restaurants and homes, particularly in northern Greece and the islands closer to Turkey. It may not be as central to Greek cuisine as tzatziki or taramasalata, but it has been part of the meze table for generations.

How Greek Hummus Differs

In my experience, Greek-style hummus tends to differ from Lebanese or Israeli versions in a few ways:

More olive oil. Greeks are generous with olive oil in everything, and hummus is no exception. Greek hummus often has a more prominent olive oil flavour and a glossier finish.

Less tahini. Some Greek versions use less tahini than their Middle Eastern counterparts, or even omit it entirely, relying instead on olive oil for richness.

Lemon-forward. Greek hummus tends to be sharper and more lemony. The acidity is more pronounced.

Simpler garnish. While Lebanese hummus might be topped with whole chickpeas, a pool of olive oil, and a dusting of paprika or sumac, Greek hummus is often served simply with olive oil and a sprinkle of dried oregano.

My Recipe

This is the hummus I make at home, which draws on the Greek tradition. It is smooth, lemony, and drenched in good olive oil.

Ingredients:

• 400g dried chickpeas (or 2 x 400g tins, drained)
• 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (for dried chickpeas)
• 3 tablespoons tahini
• Juice of 2 lemons
• 2 cloves garlic
• 80ml extra virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
• Salt to taste
• Cold water as needed

If using dried chickpeas: Soak them overnight in plenty of water with the bicarbonate of soda. The next day, drain, rinse, and cook in fresh water until very soft, about 1 to 1.5 hours. They should be practically falling apart. This is key to smooth hummus.

If using tinned chickpeas: Drain and rinse them. For a smoother result, simmer them in water with a pinch of bicarb for 15 minutes, then drain. This softens the skins.

Blending: Place the warm chickpeas in a food processor with the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and a good pinch of salt. Process for several minutes, scraping down the sides. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil and add cold water a tablespoon at a time until you reach your desired consistency. I like mine very smooth and quite loose.

Taste and adjust the lemon, salt, and garlic. Transfer to a serving bowl, create a well with the back of a spoon, and pour in a generous amount of olive oil. Sprinkle with dried oregano or paprika.

The Secret to Smoothness

The single biggest factor in smooth hummus is how well you cook the chickpeas. They need to be very, very soft. Undercooked chickpeas will give you grainy hummus no matter how long you blend. If in doubt, cook them longer.

The second factor is blending time. Most people do not blend long enough. Give it a full five minutes in the food processor. The friction and time transform the texture from rough to silky.

Serving

Serve with warm pita bread, raw vegetables, or as part of a broader meze spread. Hummus keeps well in the fridge for about four days, though you may need to stir in a splash of water and a drizzle of olive oil to refresh it before serving.

Whether you call it Greek, Lebanese, Turkish, or simply Mediterranean, good hummus is good hummus. Make it with care, use quality ingredients, and do not skimp on the olive oil. Whatever its origins, it belongs on every meze table.

Kali orexi.