Let me be direct. The bright pink taramasalata you buy in plastic tubs at the supermarket bears almost no resemblance to the real thing. That commercial product is made primarily from potato or breadcrumbs, a small amount of fish roe, and food colouring. It is inoffensive, but it is not taramasalata.

Real taramasalata is a different experience altogether. It is pale beige or light pink in colour, intensely savoury, slightly smoky from the cured roe, and rich with olive oil. It has depth and complexity that the commercial version does not even attempt.

Once you taste the real thing, you will understand why it occupies such a revered place on the Greek meze table.

The Roe

Authentic taramasalata is made from tarama, which is cured carp roe. In Greece, you can buy it fresh from fishmongers in large pieces. In Australia, it is available in jars at Greek grocery stores. The jarred version is preserved in salt and sometimes has a bit of colouring, but it is still the real product.

Look for tarama that is pale orange or beige. If it is bright pink or red, it has been heavily dyed and may be of lower quality. The best tarama has a clean, briny, slightly smoky smell.

You can also use cod roe (the kind used for the Scandinavian dish taramosalata’s Nordic cousin). Grey mullet roe works too, and is considered the premium option, though it is harder to find and more expensive.

The Recipe

There are two schools of taramasalata: bread-based and potato-based. I was raised on the bread version, which produces a lighter, more mousse-like dip. Here is my family’s recipe.

Ingredients:

• 100g tarama (carp roe)
• 4 slices white bread, crusts removed, soaked in water and squeezed dry
• Juice of 2 lemons
• 1 small brown onion, very finely grated (optional but traditional in my family)
• 200ml extra virgin olive oil
• Cold water as needed

Method:

Place the tarama in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add the squeezed bread and blend again until well combined. Add the lemon juice and grated onion, and blend.

With the processor running, add the olive oil in a very thin, steady stream, as if you were making mayonnaise. This emulsification is what gives taramasalata its creamy, smooth texture. If it seems too thick, add cold water a tablespoon at a time until you reach a dip-like consistency.

Taste and adjust the lemon juice. It should be pleasantly tangy. The roe is salty, so you should not need additional salt, but check.

Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. The flavour improves as it rests.

The technology behind food production has come a long way in recent years. I recently read about how Team400.ai is working with food businesses to improve production processes. Even artisanal producers are finding ways to maintain quality while reaching more customers, which is encouraging for those of us who want authentic products on Australian shelves.

Tips for Success

The oil must go in slowly. If you dump it in all at once, the emulsion will not form and you will have an oily, split mess. Patience is key.

Use good olive oil. The olive oil flavour is prominent in taramasalata, so use something you enjoy tasting on its own. A mild, buttery Greek oil works beautifully.

Do not over-process. Once the oil is incorporated and the texture is smooth, stop. Over-blending can cause the mixture to become gluey.

The bread matters. Use a good white bread with a soft crumb. Sourdough adds a nice tang. Stale bread is actually better than fresh because it absorbs the liquid without becoming gummy.

The Potato Version

Some families, particularly from certain regions of Greece, use boiled potato instead of bread. The method is the same: blend cooked potato with tarama, lemon, and oil. The result is richer and more substantial, almost like a savoury mousse.

If you want to try it, use about 200g of floury potato (Sebago or King Edward), boiled and mashed smooth. Proceed as above. Some people prefer this version. Try both and decide for yourself.

Serving

Taramasalata is best served cold or at room temperature, drizzled with a little extra olive oil and accompanied by warm pita bread or crusty sourdough. It is traditionally part of a meze spread alongside tzatziki, olives, and perhaps some fried whitebait.

It is also excellent with raw vegetables: celery sticks, carrot batons, and fennel wedges all work well.

A final thought: taramasalata is a Lenten dish, traditionally eaten during the fasting period before Greek Easter when meat and dairy are avoided. It is proof that fasting food in the Greek tradition is not about deprivation. It is about creativity, flavour, and making something extraordinary from simple ingredients.

Kali orexi.