Moussaka is the dish that everyone thinks they know. It appears on every Greek restaurant menu, it shows up in recipe books, and most people have a vague idea of what it involves: eggplant, mince, bechamel. But a truly great moussaka, the kind that makes you close your eyes and sigh, requires care, patience, and attention to each layer.

It is not a quick weeknight dinner. It is a project. A labour of love. And when you get it right, it is one of the most glorious things you can eat.

The Eggplant Layer

You need about 3 large eggplants. Slice them into rounds about 1cm thick. There are two approaches to preparing them:

Frying: The traditional method. Shallow fry the slices in olive oil until golden on both sides. This gives them the richest flavour and the best texture. Drain on paper towels.

Baking: The lighter option. Brush the slices with olive oil, season with salt, and bake at 200 degrees Celsius for about 20 minutes, flipping once, until golden and soft.

I use the frying method for occasions when I want the full traditional experience, and baking when I want something a bit lighter. Both work.

Some recipes include a layer of sliced potatoes at the bottom of the dish. My mother always did this and I have continued the tradition. Slice 2 large potatoes thinly, fry or bake them until just cooked, and use them as the base layer.

The Meat Sauce

Ingredients:

• 500g lamb mince (or a lamb and beef blend)
• 1 large brown onion, finely diced
• 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 400g tin crushed tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 cinnamon stick (or half a teaspoon ground cinnamon)
• 2 bay leaves
• A pinch of allspice
• 150ml red wine
• Olive oil
• Salt and pepper

Heat olive oil in a large pan and cook the onion until soft. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add the mince and cook, breaking it up, until browned.

Pour in the wine and let it bubble and reduce by half. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, cinnamon, bay leaves, allspice, and seasoning. Simmer gently for about 30 minutes until thick and rich. Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaves.

The cinnamon is important. It is a signature flavour in Greek meat sauces and gives moussaka its distinctive warmth. Do not overdo it, a hint is all you need, but do not leave it out either.

The Bechamel

This is the crown of the moussaka, and it is where many versions fall short. A good bechamel for moussaka should be thick, creamy, and enriched with egg and cheese.

Ingredients:

• 80g butter
• 80g plain flour
• 750ml warm milk
• 2 egg yolks
• 100g kefalograviera or parmesan, finely grated
• A pinch of nutmeg
• Salt and white pepper

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir constantly for 2 minutes to cook out the raw flour taste. This is your roux.

Gradually add the warm milk, a splash at a time, stirring constantly. Each addition of milk should be fully incorporated before you add the next. This prevents lumps.

Once all the milk is added and the sauce is smooth and thick, remove from the heat. Stir in the grated cheese and nutmeg. Let it cool for a few minutes, then beat in the egg yolks. The eggs enrich the bechamel and help it set into a firm, golden layer during baking.

Assembly

In a large, deep baking dish (about 30cm x 20cm):

1. Layer the potato slices on the bottom
2. Add a layer of eggplant slices
3. Spread all the meat sauce evenly
4. Add another layer of eggplant slices
5. Pour the bechamel over the top and spread it evenly
6. Sprinkle with a little extra grated cheese and a dusting of nutmeg

Baking

Bake at 180 degrees Celsius for about 45 minutes, until the bechamel is golden and bubbling and a knife inserted into the centre comes out hot.

The Critical Step: Resting

This is where patience comes in. You must let the moussaka rest for at least 30 minutes after it comes out of the oven. An hour is even better. This allows the layers to set and firm up, so when you cut into it, you get clean, distinct layers rather than a sloppy collapse.

I know the smell is maddening. I know the bechamel is glistening and golden and calling to you. But trust me. Wait.

Serving

Cut into generous squares and serve with a simple green salad and crusty bread. Moussaka is rich, so you do not need much alongside it. A glass of Xinomavro or Agiorgitiko is the ideal accompaniment.

Moussaka reheats beautifully and many people, myself included, think it tastes even better the next day. The flavours deepen and the layers firm up even more. It is an ideal make-ahead dish for entertaining.

This is a dish that rewards the effort you put into it. Every layer matters. Take your time, do each component well, and the result will be extraordinary.

Kali orexi.